Nepal Part 1 - Nov 2023

 

Looking chuffed to be on a plane to Nepal

PROLOGUE

In 2006, James visited Nepal for the first time as a volunteer English teacher.  He found his feet, his people and his second home.  He came back a few more times over he years to visit, connect with the friends he had made and help out.  We knew it was just a matter of time before we would visit together.  That time had finally come!

Landing at the airport in Kathmandu we were surprised to be asked for our boarding pass at immigration.  We have NEVER been asked for this at ANY airport before.  I had left mine in the seat pocket on the plane as I sometimes do. The young woman processing us was about to get very difficult about it until James spoke to here in his best Nepali, which is actually pretty good.  She was surprised to say the least.  He then sang her his signature Nepali folk song which she gleefully joined in.  Hey presto!  Passport stamped, no problem.

KATHMANDU

    We stayed the first five days in a cheap but very nice hostel on the outskirts of Thamel, the tourist area of town.  Every third world country has one.

We were happy to have these canine
companions living on our street

We spent our time wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and acclimitising to the weather and food.  We found our favourite morning cup of dud chia (milky, sweet, spicy tea).

These locals at our favourite cafe also enjoyed a rendition of the signature folk song.....

We took a trip up to Monkey Temple (Swoyambhu Mahachaitya.  Temples in high places are always good for a view of the city.

Baby stupas

That view though!

So cool to see all the different wildlife coexisting in peace

James was determined to find a tope (Nepali traditional headware) that would fit his (larger than the average Nepali) head!  This one wasn't too far off fitting well.

We stumbled upon (wink wink) a yarn shop where they were selling wool from NZ that they import, spin and dye in Nepal.  We didn't buy any but Clare was happy in her element for a few minutes.

We found some more of our favourite local dishes.  Thali is a traditional lunch/dinner comprising rice, curry (vegetable and/or meat), dahl and a collection of vegetables including achar (pickled veg like cauliflower).  A typical thali is supposed to have all the flavour profiles of sweet, sour. spicy etc

This thali was outstanding

We discovered our love of Momos.  Chicken/veg/buffalo dumplings in soup.  Being a Hindu country, the cow is sacred in Nepal so they don't eat beef but buffalo is a popular protein source for many.

Too yummy to get a photo before diving in

Some cool/unusual things we spotted around town .....

Stray/street dogs are EVERYWHERE!  

So happy to see this guy arrive at a local square with
a bag of dog food for the resident strays.
What a hero!

Just some local street dogs enjoying a daytime snooze

We were bemused and somewhat shocked to see how many people one can fit on a scooter.  Seems only the driver has to wear a helmet.

This dad pulled up in front of us to check his phone.
At least he stopped to do it!!!

The traffic is absolutely chaotic.  On James's advice it became apparent that the only safe way to cross a busy road in to pick a time when there are only motorbikes coming at you - no buses or cars - and just walk.  Look straight ahead, walk with confidence. Do not, under any circumstances, hesitate, change direction or make eye contact with any rider.  Magically everyone will just go around you.  It is super counterintuitive but works superbly!

CHITWAN

Next came a bus journey to Sauraha, Chitwan.  The bus trip was long, slow and very rough.  The roads truly are shocking!  There are villages dotted along the whole highway and on both sides of the river.  The villigers access their properties in the other side of the river by a series of these very cool swing bridges.

Chitwan is an area in the Indo Gangetic plains of Nepal. The weather is warm and humid and it is where everyone comes to take a jungle tour in the extensive National Park. 

We hung out at the river a bit and were lucky enough to spot some deer grazing, crocodiles sunbathing and elephants feeding.  We decided against taking a park tour to try and see a tiger as there was little hope of seeing much in the way of wildlife in the park as the tours where way too popular.

A typical safari truck

We came to catch up with friends.

We caught up with this lovely family for a photo
op on behalf of another volunteer

We were lucky enough to be able to stay at the magical Wildlife Adventure Resort (WAR), owned by friends enjoying good company, great views of the river and some fabulous food.

Sharad, the manager of WAR

The unusual misty vista that is a part of every day
in the plains.

Spotted these guys on one of our wandering.  Back in the day, James watched a game of elephant football here. Fortunately it is now frowned upon for elephants to be used as entertainment or for tourist activities.  These guys are likely owned by the government and used by the park guards to track down poachers.

Taking the elephants across the river to the park
for daytime grazing

We sat daily and watched the gharial (fish eating)
crocodiles sleeping in the shallows

We did lots of walking enjoying the sights and around the village and gaining some cool insights into village life.

Pretty coloours

A typical village setup

Just a cool stack of hay.  Everyone seems to have one.

Lots of people have buffalo for milk and meat

Many modes of local transport in this one picture

The day we left our tuktuk driver spotted this beauty in someones field at the side of the road and stopped so we could watch him for a bit.

Wissington Way, UK - Oct 2023

 

Our new view

We had time to squeeze in a ten day sit before it was time for us to leave the country.  We chose, and were chosen for, a housesit in Constable Country.  We were all set to enjoy the company of mother and daughter duo Crumble and Rhubarb.

Mother Crumble

Daughter Rhubarb

These two treasures were such good company and so much fun.  They were also very lovely with their cat brother and sisters Flashy, Dizzy and Dora.

We had lots of fun out in the surrounding fields with the dogs.  Chasing rabbits and generally running amok!

We were delighted to find mushrooms in the fields which we were happy enough to transfer to our stomachs.

The weather was starting to turn cold but the days were still warm enough to enjoy the outdoors.  We saw lots of deer on our ramblings with the dogs and even had one crash into the car when we were slowly making our way up the lane one day.  It ran away immediately so clearly wasn't injured and fortunately didn't damage the car.

We just love it when the dogs and cats enjoy each
other's company

Come night time, we were all happy to snuggle up indoors in front of the fire.

Nawww, so adorable!

Family fun, UK Sep/Oct 2023

 

Arriving in the UK mid August and the weather was still delightful.  First stop .... family in Bury St Edmunds.  We had fun babysitting the great nephews, Axel and Kai.

We also had the privilege of attending an art exhibition of one of James' old rugby team mates who he hadn't seen in thirty odd years!  It's always a bonus when you actually like their art.

Dan Emery, Artist

Next stop was Papworth St Agnes.  This is the fourth time we have been to stay with this adorable family of lurchers.

From back L to R: Hettie, Finn, Max
Front: Jake

The first time we sat for them the pups (we still call them that!), Finn and Jake, were 16mths.  They are now seven.  We totally feel like part of their pack.

The guy with the treat bag is always
'The leader of the pack'

We have never done this sit in autumn before.  We are usually here in spring so it was quite different walking the doglets in the bare fields this time.  Normally the fields are full of crops much taller than the dogs.

The weather was super dry and poor Hettie had quite some trouble trying to find her usual swimming holes.

Spot the dog

Resorting to sitting water in the 
tractor tracks

We did quite a bit of gardening when it was cool enough to be outside.

And quite a bit of eating!  

Fresh pigeon breast with field mushrooms
picked during doggy walk

The lurchers love chicken and when we roast one, we have a couple of meals and the rest goes into a stock pot in the aga where the bones break down and they enjoy it poured over their dried food.

Clare had dehydrated and packed some of her sourdough starter to reactivate when we arrived.  It turned into a bit more of a process than anticipated, but it finally came good.

Sourdough burger buns

Double chocolate sourdough loaf

Not the best loaf but the good thing about sourdough
is that it always tastes fantastic!

When we're not out walking the fields or playing in the yard ... 

We always leave plenty of time for relaxing with the doglets.

Father and son

No class going on here!

There is always a knee to be found

Awww, Finn

No room for a human in the bed, let alone two!!

We love these guys so much.