Nepal Part 1 - Nov 2023

 

Looking chuffed to be on a plane to Nepal

PROLOGUE

In 2006, James visited Nepal for the first time as a volunteer English teacher.  He found his feet, his people and his second home.  He came back a few more times over he years to visit, connect with the friends he had made and help out.  We knew it was just a matter of time before we would visit together.  That time had finally come!

Landing at the airport in Kathmandu we were surprised to be asked for our boarding pass at immigration.  We have NEVER been asked for this at ANY airport before.  I had left mine in the seat pocket on the plane as I sometimes do. The young woman processing us was about to get very difficult about it until James spoke to here in his best Nepali, which is actually pretty good.  She was surprised to say the least.  He then sang her his signature Nepali folk song which she gleefully joined in.  Hey presto!  Passport stamped, no problem.

KATHMANDU

    We stayed the first five days in a cheap but very nice hostel on the outskirts of Thamel, the tourist area of town.  Every third world country has one.

We were happy to have these canine
companions living on our street

We spent our time wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and acclimitising to the weather and food.  We found our favourite morning cup of dud chia (milky, sweet, spicy tea).

These locals at our favourite cafe also enjoyed a rendition of the signature folk song.....

We took a trip up to Monkey Temple (Swoyambhu Mahachaitya.  Temples in high places are always good for a view of the city.

Baby stupas

That view though!

So cool to see all the different wildlife coexisting in peace

James was determined to find a tope (Nepali traditional headware) that would fit his (larger than the average Nepali) head!  This one wasn't too far off fitting well.

We stumbled upon (wink wink) a yarn shop where they were selling wool from NZ that they import, spin and dye in Nepal.  We didn't buy any but Clare was happy in her element for a few minutes.

We found some more of our favourite local dishes.  Thali is a traditional lunch/dinner comprising rice, curry (vegetable and/or meat), dahl and a collection of vegetables including achar (pickled veg like cauliflower).  A typical thali is supposed to have all the flavour profiles of sweet, sour. spicy etc

This thali was outstanding

We discovered our love of Momos.  Chicken/veg/buffalo dumplings in soup.  Being a Hindu country, the cow is sacred in Nepal so they don't eat beef but buffalo is a popular protein source for many.

Too yummy to get a photo before diving in

Some cool/unusual things we spotted around town .....

Stray/street dogs are EVERYWHERE!  

So happy to see this guy arrive at a local square with
a bag of dog food for the resident strays.
What a hero!

Just some local street dogs enjoying a daytime snooze

We were bemused and somewhat shocked to see how many people one can fit on a scooter.  Seems only the driver has to wear a helmet.

This dad pulled up in front of us to check his phone.
At least he stopped to do it!!!

The traffic is absolutely chaotic.  On James's advice it became apparent that the only safe way to cross a busy road in to pick a time when there are only motorbikes coming at you - no buses or cars - and just walk.  Look straight ahead, walk with confidence. Do not, under any circumstances, hesitate, change direction or make eye contact with any rider.  Magically everyone will just go around you.  It is super counterintuitive but works superbly!

CHITWAN

Next came a bus journey to Sauraha, Chitwan.  The bus trip was long, slow and very rough.  The roads truly are shocking!  There are villages dotted along the whole highway and on both sides of the river.  The villigers access their properties in the other side of the river by a series of these very cool swing bridges.

Chitwan is an area in the Indo Gangetic plains of Nepal. The weather is warm and humid and it is where everyone comes to take a jungle tour in the extensive National Park. 

We hung out at the river a bit and were lucky enough to spot some deer grazing, crocodiles sunbathing and elephants feeding.  We decided against taking a park tour to try and see a tiger as there was little hope of seeing much in the way of wildlife in the park as the tours where way too popular.

A typical safari truck

We came to catch up with friends.

We caught up with this lovely family for a photo
op on behalf of another volunteer

We were lucky enough to be able to stay at the magical Wildlife Adventure Resort (WAR), owned by friends enjoying good company, great views of the river and some fabulous food.

Sharad, the manager of WAR

The unusual misty vista that is a part of every day
in the plains.

Spotted these guys on one of our wandering.  Back in the day, James watched a game of elephant football here. Fortunately it is now frowned upon for elephants to be used as entertainment or for tourist activities.  These guys are likely owned by the government and used by the park guards to track down poachers.

Taking the elephants across the river to the park
for daytime grazing

We sat daily and watched the gharial (fish eating)
crocodiles sleeping in the shallows

We did lots of walking enjoying the sights and around the village and gaining some cool insights into village life.

Pretty coloours

A typical village setup

Just a cool stack of hay.  Everyone seems to have one.

Lots of people have buffalo for milk and meat

Many modes of local transport in this one picture

The day we left our tuktuk driver spotted this beauty in someones field at the side of the road and stopped so we could watch him for a bit.