Thursday, 19 February 2026

Western Nepal and Bardia National Park - Jan 2026

 

Temple Mural, Thakurbaba Temple, Bardia Nationl Park

Although we had enjoyed our time in India, we really were ready for a quieter and less chaotic time.  Enter Nepal!  It would have been very easy to just walk past the Immigration Office on the side of the road and have heard of people making that mistake before.

James really couldn't get here fast enough

James has been a regular visitor to Nepal since he taught English here for the first time on 2005.  He knows a bit of the language and understands the people, the culture and the transportation systems.  So were were feeling right at home once again.

We decided to stay in Mahendranagar, the first village from the border to get our bearings and take a bit of a breather.  It is a rural working city that is easy to get around on foot.  We had a bit of an hilarious time trying to find a bank to change some money.  We got sent from bank to bank and teller to teller until at about the 6th bank where someone decided to help us.  It took aaaagggges, but it did happen.  We were amused by the secruity guard at the door who waved his metal detector at everyone and everyone made it beep, including us, yet he failed to ever search anyone.

  Welcome to Nepal.  It doesn't always make sense but it's pretty relaxed.

There was a march on the street.  The election is
looming.

A knitter had dropped their ball of
yarn from an upstair balcony

When it came time to leave we simply stepped out onto the road in front of our hotel and got into a microbus (van).  Life is very simple.

Next stop, Chisapani (cold water), is a very small town right beside a very big river, The Kanarli.  The bridge in town is a popular spot for Instagrammers to have their photo taken.


We took the obligatory walk but the wind whipped so strongly down the river until after midday everyday that it was actually difficult to walk upright.

Looking up river

Looking down river

Looking across to our hotel

Bardia National Park starts on the eastern
side of the bridge

We were grateful of the quiet of this wee town, enjoying some very local samosas and dud chia (spicy milk tea).  The food at our hotel was also very good and we were just a bit fascninated by the view of the funerals which were held on the river bank every after noon.  In Nepal, they burn their dead on a pyre and push it out onto the river!  It all seems very environmentally sensible to us.

This was the view of the funerals from our hotel,
so not too close for comfort.

We caught another micro bus from the village.  Here we had to put our Nepali hats on as there seemed to be a lot of disorganisation and our bags seemed not to be getting on the roof.  But you soon learn to trust the process, as eventually they moved some stuff around and off we went.

The van was pretty full and one of us
had to sit on a cane stool in the aisle.

We were first out at the crossroads of Ambasa.  Here we enjoyed a dud chia and the company of some of the villages.


We got in a tuktuk for a ride through the National Park to Bardia Homestay, where we would spend the next week.


What a magic place this turned out to be.  Our hosts were a Nepali and Dutch couple who have created a real oasis in the jungle.

Our lovely room

Dog bed by day

The lovely Harry has to be shut inside the house at night as their last dog was killed by a leopard!  It is common for them to come into the compounds at night.

Fire pit by night

We have always wanted to come to Bardia.  It is a much less commercial tourist destination than the more popular, and easier to get to, Sauraha.  The word is that you are more likely to see a tiger in the wild here as there are simply less people trapsing through the park each day.


Bardia National Park has approx 110 wild tigers, 130 wild elephants and 30 wild rhinos over an area of 968 square kilometers.  But there is a lot more to it than that!  We quickly booked ourselves a jeep safari and headed out early one morning with our guide and driver.


As we set out, our guide asked us what we would most like to see that day.  We both were quick to say .... a wild tiger, having never before seen on.  We have seen plenty of elephants and rhinos in Nepal before.  Well, lo and behold, not half and hour into the park we see a beautiful big male tiger resting up against a tree about 10m from us.  We came to an abrupt halt and we all sat there in disbelief.  We looked at him.  He calmly looked at us.  No one had their camera ready as, really, we weren't actually expecting to see a tiger.  You do have to be very lucky indeed!  Once we all came to our senses and reached for our cameras, the spell was broken and he calmly got to his feet and disappeared into the trees.  It was such a surreal moment in time.

Clare took the only photo as he disappeared

Pretty happy with that experience

Hoping it comes back

Feeling a bit like our job here was done, we had the rest of the day to just enjoy the other wildlife of the park and the scenery.

Babai River

One of two beautiful owls we saw

We saw so many deer.  All day and into the early evening.  In fact we managed to spot four of the five deer species in the park.



Deer and peacock together

Lunch spot

Black faced langur

A Changeable Hawk-Eagle guarding its prey

Just when we thought we had seen it all and were heading for home we come across a wild elephant sauntering along the road toward us.  He veered off into the bush.  We tried, but failed, to track him down.


Such a rewarding day.  One never to be repeated, nor forgotten.











Thursday, 5 February 2026

Rural India - Jan 2026

 

Botanic Gardens, Chandigarh

Eventually, as it always does, it came time to leave the relative comfort that had become Amritsar and head east toward the Nepali Border, our ultimate destination.

We took a train to Chandigarh.  It was an easy journey during which we made friends with a young Indian couple who now live in Austrailia.

Chandigarh itself is not like the India we had come to know so far.  It is very clean and ordered.  There are even traffic lights that drivers actually pay heed to!  However, it was here we learned that many hotels in India, outside of the obvious tourist locations, do not actually accept foreign travellers.  Apparently the red tape involved in having to report each guest is just something that most hotels can't be bothered with.  So we turned up at the hotel we had booked and paid for online only to be told we couldn't stay!  To be fair, it was easily sorted and the refund was arranged while we were in the taxi to the hotel that would take us.  No real drama, but a surprise non-the-less.  The red tape that India has itself wrapped up in really is a trick sometimes.  Going forward we made sure to contact each hotel by Whatsapp to make sure we could stay.

Chandigarh is the capital of Punjab and was designed by the Swiss-French modernist architect, Le Corbusier.  You can definiely tell it is a city designed with foresight and the advantage of modern knowledge.  The infrastructure is really very good.

We took a walk through the Botanic Gardens and around the city in general.

Before we knew it we had happened upon the famous Rock Garden of Chandigarh.  What a wonderful exhibit this is.  It is a tourist attraction designed in amoungst the natural rock feature of the area, enhanced by the addition of recycled goods that have been embedded in the exhibits.

This wall is made with electrical parts
Natural rock


Made of broken ceramics

Dressed with plastic bangles and
hair ties

We also found the local lake which was super busy on a Saturday with everyone out enjoying the winter sunshine.

And this poor guy taking people
for rides.

Even the restaurants were a lot more westernised here.

This pani puri and chat was delicious

Proper pizza although still spicy

At the beginning and end of each day we always sat down with our favourite chai guy at the end of our road.

The next train journey took us to Saharanpur.  Hmmm, we don't usually say this about anywhere we have been in the world, but we certainly won't be wanting to stop here again in future.  It had a really grimy feel to it, even by Indian standards.  As usual the people were lovely and helpful and we managed to make friends with a couple of chai guys and eventually find a place to change money.  Trying to buy tissues for the cold Clare had picked up in Amritsar was another thing altogether!

Yummy baked sweet potato


We did actually manage to find a park to walk around which was a welcome break from the chaotic streets.  It was technically closed when we got there but the guy let us in anyway.


This is how cold it was!

Our last train journey (for a while) was to the cute wee town of Rudrapur.  We enjoyed our stay here. Wandering the streets, looking for yummy street food and engaging with the locals as much as is possible.

These guys served us some yummy twice fried chips

We found another park to walk around

Second hand clothing Indian style

Temple

We always love to find a veg stall


We found a local bus to take us to our last India destination of Banbasa.  It was full and crowded, as expected, with three people crowded onto our two seats.  This is often where James's broad shoulders become a problem.  But it is always interesting and comical to take a local bus.  There is always something to look at or be amazed by.

Banbasa is a small rural border town with not a lot going on but we enjoyed some R&R.  The cows that wander round town are amusing though!


The next exciting installment was finding just the right tuktuk driver to get us over the border and into Nepal.  And he did not disappoint.  We had read online that sometimes the drivers just drop you on the India side and it is quite a trek over the border.  Our guy very graciously took us all the way across the no-man's land, waiting very patiently at each official check .... of which there was many!  Indian red tape at it's finest on full display.

Checking out of India.  This guy was incredibly
officious

Enjoying a last Indian chai for a while

Yet another check of the paperwork and another
ledger to fill in

Goodbye India!  You have been an assault on our sensors in so many ways and we have loved (nearly) every minute of it!