James & Clare, Coddiwomplers Inc: Bolivia tambien

Cochabamba

We left Coroico early in the morning for the two hour journey back to La Paz intending to catch a bus to reach Cochabamba, a 7 hour journey, on the same day. This would get us into Coch at a reasonable time to get to our friends' place?!?! We caught the 11.30am bus and sat back to relax for a few hours. There were road works ALL along the way which didn't bode well for a speedy trip. The other unusual thing we noticed about this road is that every 100-200m along the way there is a dog sitting, usually well off the road but in plain sight, looking expectantly at the flow of traffic. In the main they looked well fed and not unhappy with their lot, but we did worry about them. We later discovered that the locals consider it good luck to throw food out for them. Hmmm, not sure about that as a lifestyle for the poor dogs.

Here is a link to a fabulous story about a Bolivian photographer who is publishing a book about his photos of Bolivian stay/street dogs ... the good, the bad and the ugly of the situation:
Bolivian street dog article

Needless to say, and in true South American bus travel fashion, the journey seemed to drag on forever. When we reached the outskirts of town there seemed to be some kind of fiesta going on. The road was horribly busy. We sat and waited six rotations of one set of lights.

Quillacollo evening fiesta

When we finally reached the street of the bus terminal at around 8.45pm the bus couldn't get to the terminal the street was so busy, so they unloaded us all on the side of the road to walk the last 100m. Getting to the house from here was a whole different story, even having found our friend to guide us ... but you get the idea. Clare commented that the city was looking a lot more affluent than when she was here in 2006/7.

We had come to stay with our good friends Abraham and his two younger children Nelly and Gabriel. They live in New Zealand where his wife Sue (Clare's school friend from NZ) and the two older children still are. We had enjoyed time with the whole family in NZ this previous summer. Abraham had come to spend the (NZ) winter in Bolivia, visit with his family and check up on the house. It is also a good opportunity for the children to be immersed again in their culture, not to mention keeping their Spanish language alive. Great timing for us to be able to catch up with them here.

The house is some way out of the city centre but on a main transport route which makes life very simple. The property has a rural feel to it with the mountains so close.

There is a caretaker who lives on site and looks after the (guard!) doggies. Most South Americans have dogs as security rather than viewing them as pets. The kids found Pepa (the large dog) as a puppy in a drain near the house when they were in Bolivia three years ago. She was really happy to have us all around for a time.

The day after we arrived Abraham cooked a feast of local fare ... pork, corn and potato stew. We had some (mutual) friends over to share some good food, good company and chicha, a local 'beer' fermented (usually) from maize. The potatoes the locals prefer, the Chuno, are certainly an acquired taste! They are freeze dried and rehydrated in the stew.

We took a few trips into town to get some jobs done. James neededhis leather hat repairing and there are many street merchants offering a service to repair shoes. The hat was a simple fix for the one we chose. We spent some time walking in circles around the cancha, the huge local market in town where you can buy anything from fresh fruit and vege, to meat, to dog food, to plastic ware and clothes. You name it, they've got it. Again Clare commented on how developed the city was looking. In 2006 the cancha was a festering mess of mud and germs and you wouldn't buy the meat if it was the last thing available. Now the roads are all paved and the meat is kept refrigerated.

The legume and pasta stall

Potato aisle

Trying on traditional head gear

Another day we ventured up to the Cristo atop San Pedro Hill. At 33m in height it rivals Brazil for the rights to claim the worlds largest statue of Christ. We took a taxi up to see it and rode the cable car back down.

View of Cochabamba from San Pedro Hill

There is always a square to sit in and watch the world go by

As usual we stumbled upon a fiesta! These people really know how to party.

On our last night with the family we ventured down the road to enjoy some anticucho from the lady who sets up her fire on the street corner every night. This is traditional street food consisting of beef heart and potatoes cooked on an open fire served with a spicy peanut sauce - Clare's favourite street food of Bolivia. While we waited for the food to cook we went for a walk around the village where Nelly and Gabriel became part of the street art.

Thank you familia Aruquipa for offering us a week of respite from our busy travels!

We took the night bus to Sucre. Our first attempt to get out of town on the main route failed as we came upon a blockade. Locals regularly block busy traffic routes leading out of town in protest of something or other. After waiting 15mins to see what would happen, our bus driver turned tail and found an alternative but very bumpy road out of town. The rest of our journey continued without incident and we arrived in Sucre before we knew it!

The bus station was extremely old and dilapidated, in stark contrast to the city itself. It would appear that in the rush of "progress" made in the last 12years, since Evo Morales became president, that many more people now own cars where as once upon a time that mode of transport belonged only to the wealthy (of which there were not a whole lot in Bolivia). It is up for debate whether this is a good thing or not, and also whether Morales has been good for the country (it depends on who you talk to), but it shows in ways that are least expected. Obviously only the poor take buses these days so the state of the station is immaterial.

More beautiful colonial architecture to be found in Sucre

Sucre is the constitutional capital of Bolivia and was founded on the back of the silver mines in nearby Potisi. The Spanish royalty and wealthy mine owners preferred it's temperate climate to that of Potisi. It also has some more recent terrible history involving some heartbreaking racial demonstrations which occured here in 2008. Here is a link should you have the stomach to read it:
Racism runs amok in Sucre

As usual, we found a pretty park to sit in ....

and a market to enjoy some fresh fruit smoothies ....

On to Potosi next. The landscape was becoming more desert like by the mile. Interesting in a unique way.

Potisi is one of the highest cities in the world at just more than 4,000m. By this time we were really looking forward to descendiing to a more comfortable altitude. Again the architecture was eye-catching and one night probably didn't do this town justice.

Our bus journey to Tupiza the next day was even more enchanting. The sight of the huge cacti as far as the eye could see soon gave way to the wonder of the red river rocks Tupiza is so well known for.

Our hostel was perched on the side of the hill across the river from town. Apart from one other couple, we were the only guests for the few nights we stayed.

Walking into town one day we watched a tree catch fire.

Our final day was marked by the fact that it was National Car Free Day in Bolivia. Instead of the roads being busy with traffic, kids were out learning to ride their bikes, their Dads running along side ready to catch if there was to be a fall.

In the town square there was a fiesta in full swing. Gotta love Bolivia for finding an excuse for a festival at the drop of a hat.