James & Clare, Coddiwomplers Inc: December 2025

Ankara Castle

It was a short bus ride from Batumi in Georgia to the Turkish border. This was the busiest border crossing we had exprienced so far but it still only took an hour.

Waiting in the tunnel to pass through
Immigration - exit Georgia

We were keen to stay away from the tourist trails of the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, where most of Turkiye's visitors congregate. So we chose a path right through the centre of the country. This is what we discovered about some places less travelled.

TRANSPORTATION

We took a short marshrutka (van ) ride to the first town of Hopa.

A bus ride from Hopa to Kars, consisting of more than 50 tunnels, the longest being 6km, and some stunning scenery.

Trout farm on the lake

A typical town

Getting more desert like

Snow fences

From Kars to Ankara we chose the Dogu Express train. This is not the tourist Dogu which runs through winter and is a tourist attraction/trap, all inclusive luxury experience. The train we were on was just the commonal garden one. The journey was 27 hours and we thoroughly enjoyed the experience. There was a food cart where we had tea and coffee but we self catered, taking our own food and snacks. Bedding was provided and the cabins were heated.

James trying to explain to the ticket seller that
we wanted to share a cabin without having to pay for
all four berths. It's a Muslim thing that you can't
have men and women share a cabin unless you pay for
the whole thing.

Our train

We managed to scab a cabin to ourselves

The bed in use

The scenery was again stunning. Who knew that central Turkiye was really just a desert!

Cripes, it's snowing!

There's snow on them there hills

Yep, another mosque

These small herds of cows and sheep are accompanied
by a shepherd, a donkey and a couple of big dogs

First view of Ankara from the train window.

We took another train from Ankara to Istanbul, an approximately 4 hour journey.

First view of the Mediterranean from the train window.

From Istanbul across the Greek border, to Komotini we travelled by bus. The buses are comfortable and modern and stop every couple of hours for food and bathroom break. Appox £25 per person for a 7hr journey.

THE DESTINATIONS

Hopa is a small working town on the Black Sea. There is not much interesting about it and we stayed only one night while got our bearings. We stayed in a really old school hotel in Hopa. It would have been quite posh in it's day and was still one of the nicer rooms so far. A yummy buffet breakfast was included.

We ventured into town in the evening to try a Pide, or stuffed bread, which this town is especially know for.

It was a lot!

And weirdly, they grow really huge cabbages in Hopa!

Kars was definitely one of the more suprising places for us. Ostensibly we had come here because we needed to purchase train tickets and board the Dogu Express. Kars used to be the capital of Armenia, until the Turks stole it. There is still some nod to this history in the form of the odd Armenian church.

We take every opportunity to get up high in all the places we go to so that we can get an overview of the city and landscape. We climbed up to the castle in Kars.

We met an Irish couple who are overlanding in a really cool Landrover with their two dogs. We spent some time chatting about our respective travels. They confirmed our suspicions that it was quite tricky travelling with dogs around so many street dogs.

Our town square

Kars is also know for being the cheese and honey capital of the area. The same diverse flora of the area is respondible for the unique quality of both.

We also discovered a plethora of these Russian looking hats that are warn in this region. They are called Kalpacs.

Ankara is the capital of Turkiye and it did not disappoint as a destination. We really enjoyed our stay here. We had a nice hotel in walking distance from the city centre and some fabulous tourist spots.

Our first visit was to Ataturks Mausoleum. We couldn't believe how busy it was until we realised we had happened upon the time of day for all the pomp and ceremony. It was a really cool experience.

Cute little kindergarten group

The actual coffin

Everyone standing still for the Last Post

Thought this guy was a wax figure
until he raised his rifle as the Last Post
started to play.

A school group

Once again we climbed up high the yet another castle on the hill and enjoyed the views of the city.

There were people selling many trinkets and items on the side of the track on the way up. Including some cool knitwear!

The city streets were dotted with ruins. Just lying beside the roads and footpaths.

Cats in the courtyard near our hotel.

Camo dog in a town courtyard.

Now on the tourist trail proper, we arrived in Istanbul. We were keen to discover the city and by now the summer season was over. The weather was still fantastic but the crowds had definitely dispersed.

We visited the blue mosque.

And the Hagia Sophia next door.

Our hostel was perfectly placed beside the train station and we were easily able to travel by train and tram around the city. Cheap and easy transport.

Our home station

We took a trot around the water front.

Lone fisherman

The walkways across the bridge are lined with restaurants.

The bridge is packed with fishermen

We took a boat ride out to the Asian quarter. It is here we found our people. Next time we come to Istanbul, this is where we will stay.

The old port building under reconstruction

We visited the Grand Bazaar, and were underwhelmed.

These guys deliver tea to the stall holders

Then we found the Egyptian Bazaar, which was much more to our liking with a more eclectic mix of foodstuffs and trinkets.

Tea anyone?

Dried fruit of all varieties.

THE FOOD!!

Tea is the real star of the show.

We accidently discovered Kunefe in Kars when we strolled in to a cafe thinking we were going to have coffee and baklava. Wrong! Kunefe is a sweet pastry similar to baklava but an experience all of it's own.

Looks like baklava huh?

Goose is a delicacy in the Kars region

Turkish coffee will put hairs on your chest

This icecream in a mall in Ankara was THE BEST

There are so many markets all over Turkiye, some indoor but most outdoors. And you can buy absolutely EVERYTHING at them. We especially love the food stalls.

Spices

Anchovies

Cheese

Grape leaves fermenting

More cheese 🤣

Dried fruits

Eggs!

Olives

Baklava

Halva

Goat/sheep heads etc

Vegetables

Dates

Now to some interesting food experiences we enjoyed ....

Fried anchovy butty

Stuffed peppers

Chicken and buckwheat

In Ankara and Istanbul we were delighted to discover the buffet restaurants where the locals eat. So so cheap, honest food and so much to choose from!

At our local in Ankara James braved the tripe soup. Not recommended 🤣

Not surprisingly we took to feeding the street cats. They are well looked after and in good condition anyway, but a bit of extra love never goes astray.