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| Statue of woman weaving a Panama hat, Manta |
The bus trip from Quito to Manta took approximately 8 hours and went surprisingly well considering how sick we had both been throughout the previous night. The scenery through the mountains was a true delight. Arriving in Manta we took a taxi to our pre-booked accommodation and really could have done with going straight to bed. But no. We couldn't rouse anyone by ringing the buzzer, had not credit on our phone to call the number on the sign outside so just had to sit on our rucksacks. We must have done a good job of looking forlorn, as a lovely guy from a house across the street came over and asked it he could help.... in English, no less!!! He called the proprietor who came back in a taxi from wherever he was and declared he had not received our booking. We couldn't have cared less at this point and headed straight to our room where we slept like babies and awoke feeling much better.
We arrived the next day at the bus station in Manta which, in the cool light of day, turned out to be a really modern place with an awesome food court and supermarket. We caught a bus to the place we would call home for the next two months, the journey along the coast taking only and hour and half.
Mirador San Jose is a Canadian owned and operated residential development on the beach. It is marketed in Canada to those looking to relocate as a first world tropical paradise. The reality is that it is a gated community with many third world problems but we like our new place instantly. It was the 'off-season' during our stay so most of the Canadian and American people who lived here had returned to their 'other' homes for the summer. So we had no neighbours and for the most part the place was fairly deserted and quiet. Just how we like it!
Our charge, Tag, turned out to be an absolute gentleman and very easy company.
Tag has a girlfriend, Patches, who lives up the road and these two were dynamite together. We had so much fun on our daily walks on the beach, picking Patches up on the way there, running her ragged getting her all sandy, then dropping her back home. Simple pleasures in life for us all!
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| Digging for crabs |
Our house was a small yet comfortable two bedroom, the best feature being the rooftop deck where we were capable of whiling away large patches of the afternoons.
We took the bus back to Manta once a fortnight to stock up on groceries. Rafael came twice a week with a cheap and (mostly) quality supply of fresh fruit and veges, cheese and peanut butter. We were happy to be able to re-establish our habit of fresh fruit smoothies with pineapple, coconut, bananas, strawberries and anything else available. In countries such as this you can't have pre-conceived ideas of what you want to eat. You need to be flexible enough to appreciate what is fresh and local at any given time .... and run with it!
The water wagons came around weekly to replenish our drinking water and the gas guy also came to swap bottles. We just left the empties out front of the house with the money under them. $1 for a 15L water bottle and $3 for a 15kg gas bottle. Some things in Ecuador are really cheap. Petrol is only $1.50 per gallon!
We took a day trip down the coast to Puerto Lopez, a reasonably touristy coastal fishing village, found the fish market and bought some fresh fish .... chiefly because James hadn't caught any yet ;-) We also enjoyed a bowl of ceviche at a local restaurant.
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| The malecon - Puerto Lopez |
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| This lady filleted our tuna |
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| Looking back at Puerto Lopez |
Speaking of fishing, there really was all sorts of fishing to do on the coast. James quickly made a local friend, Luis, whom he went fishing with most weekends.
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Luis walking over the ridge to access
the rocks at low tide |
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| The fisherman waiting for tight lines |
On Father's Day we made a day of it, lunching with Luis and family at their home, then packing the car with the six of us (including Luis's two boys) and headed to the same spot. James was the only one to catch that day ... a Jack Cravell and a Snook.
All prepared and ready .....
To make ceviche!
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Fresh fish, red onion, tomato, avocado, coriander all 'cooked'
in lemon juice |
The guys and their mate Terry hired a boat for the day and went fishing out at Isla de Plata off the coast of Puerto Cayo. Luis and Terry both live in PC and it is about a 20min bus ride south of Mirador San Jose.
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| This is Luis taking a break from building his house ;-) |
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| The boys are proud of Dad's catch too! |
One day, whilst walking on the beach at low tide, we came upon some local guys trying to drag their very heavy set net in. James quickly stepped in to give them a hand. After a few of them working hard at it for about 20mins people started appearing out of nowhere to help.
They came on foot, by motorbike and by car. Apparently, the locals have a bush telegraph so that when a catch is hauled in, if you are there to help you get to take some fresh fish to feed your family.
We were grateful to be able to choose a couple of sierra mackerel as we have not tried it before. Very yum!
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| Tag was also happy with Dad for 'bringing home the bacon' |
We came across all manner of living and dead gems during our wanders on the beach ....
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| Pelicans flying overhead |
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| This poor guy had a broken wing |
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| Pelican skull |
Sadly, were many dead turtles washing up on the beach ...
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The cycle of life and death ... vultures
cleaning up the dead turtles |
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| Turtle skulls are bigger than you think! |
These amazing corals growing on rocks .....
Clare managed a little recycling of her own by knitting a market bag out of plastic shopping bags. Unfortunately Ecuador does not yet have a concept of environmental conservation and there is plastic EVERYWHERE, including all over the beach. Reusable bags have not caught on here yet.
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This was gifted to a friend as it is a bit
bulky to fit into our 'carry your worldly
possessions' lifestyle |
Some of our favourite pics of our canine companions ...
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| Tag loves to play |
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| Best mates |
